February 2024 - A Northern Getaway Part Three

Byland Abbey is one of those places where time feels like it stands still when you are visiting. It's a feeling made stronger by the fact we were the only ones there aside from an older couple with a dog. Me and James stood at the entrance just gazing at this dramatic ruin. I don't even think dramatic is the right word. Whitby Abbey is dramatic, Netley Abbey is homely, Fountains Abbey is impressive, Reveaux Abbey is glorious. But Byland Abbey? There's no one word that can describe it. The ruins are not the largest, nor most glorious of any ruined abbey, but there is something about Byland, that sets it apart from most other abbies I've visited.

Maybe it's the energy it gives off, I mean the frontage of the church is spectacular, the yellow stone, the remains of the impressive rose window (which reportedly was the inspiration for the rose window at York Minster), the beautiful mix of soft curves of the doors to the pointed tips of the windows.

Byland Abbey almost didn't exist, the monks that formed it had previously been at several different abbey's & monasteries before settling on the site here. They had originally settled at Furness Abbey, before leaving to join Calder Abbey. A raid by Scottish intruders killed some of the monks and damaged the abbey, and so they fled back to Furness Abbey, who would not allow them to stay. They then drifted around Yorkshire for a few years, settling near to Rievaulx Abbey, but they disturbed each other when ringing the bells, so again they moved to Byland, and began to build the Abbey. 

After a bumpy start, the abbey began to thrive. While it was never as rich or powerful as others' nearby, it soon became wealthy and noted for it's high quality wool, that served as it's main income. The abbey is full of beautiful little details, like the carving on the base of the stone columns that would have supported the roof.

A view of one of the church windows, and the tiles beneath. The tiles are on display during the warmer months, but from Autumn to Spring they are kept covered with sheets to protect them from the harsh cold weather. We've been when they are on display, and they are beautiful, such an arrange of colours & designs. 

More views of the ruined walls of the church, and you can just see the outline of the rose window through the middle window. It took me a long time to get the shot lined up, and I nearly slipped and fell in a boggy patch! The things we do for a good picture! 

Another view across the ruins, this time I was stood outside the abbey looking in. In the far distance is the front, but in the mid distance to the left hand side you can see the outline of the cloister.

Byland Abbey is also known to have written & produced books, and in one of the them, a Monk had written down some local ghost & haunting stories at the back. It's a great example of what ordinary people thought & believed at the time, even those worshipping in the Catholic faith.

And here is the remains of the chapter house, where meetings & business was conducted. It was also a place to reflect on wrong doing, and crimes & sins that were committed by the residents of the abbey were read aloud here and the individual was handed a punishment.

Byland was also the home to Wimund, a former seafarer, pirate and then bishop, who was eventually captured, castrated & blinded and sent to Byland Abbey to live out his last days. He had quite an interesting life, and I imagine his tales would have kept the other monks amused between prayers!

I could never work out what this is, I always suspected it to be the backing of a small fireplace, perhaps in an office of the Abbot, who was treated much better than the rest of those living at the abbey. Indeed, aside from the kitchens, the only place for monks to warm themselves was ironically called the warming room, and it was the only place in the abbey where they could sit or stand near a fire. There was no central heating in those days, and in chilly Yorkshire, the temperature can drop away quickly.

The fireplace is in the warming house is enormous, and would have warmed the room beautifully. But above the warming house would have been the Muniment room, where important documents were stored. Not only was it a safer space on the upper floor, the documents & manuscripts were kept dry by the heat of the warming room below.

Byland abbey is free to visit, and a joy to behold. It's open any daylight hours, and is looked after by English Heritage. You can find out more on their website @english-heritage.org.uk/byland-abbey. If you want to learn more about the abbey, as well as other Cistercian abbeys in Yorkshire, I found this really interesting website @dhi.ac.uk/cistercians/ with lots of further information & history.

Me and James were staying the night at the The Abbey Inn, located directly across the entrance to the abbey. We had been once before when we first visited, but since then it had been under new management & had been restored. The building is probably made of stone from the abbey, and has the most welcoming feel of any place I've ever been to eat at. We checked in, were shown to our room, which was at the front of the building and gave us views of the abbey through the window. I had a quick shower & got changed, for I had mud all up one leg!

Then it was time to head into the inn for dinner, but I couldn't resist stopping to take a picture of the abbey with the moody dark skies behind it.

And only a few minutes later, the sky was pitch black, with only the Abbey gloriously lit up. Makes you wonder what it would have looked like lit up at night if it hadn't been shut down in 1539 and was still complete. Perhaps the Monks would have enjoyed popping across for a spot of dinner once in a while!

     

Dinner was incredible. The Abbey Inn is run by Michelin star chef Tommy Banks, and the food was simply divine. Imagine that, a divine dinner in front of a divine view! I had the roast dinner, and it was perhaps the best roast dinner I have ever had. Is that too bold a statement to make? No I don't think it is. The food sang when I tasted it, and it was majestic. We shared a bottle of wine with dinner, perfectly paired with the food, while the abbey watched over us. Can life get any better than this?

I wish I could tell you more about the room, it was large, spacious and with a well kitted out bathroom with a very nice shower (my back was playing up again, so I was unable to get in or out of the tub), but as soon as I laid down on the comfortable bed, I was out like a light.

Breakfast was just as good, and what I loved about the breakfast was the fact it had a sense of humour. The hot boiled eggs kept warm in the chicken feed was a fantastically funny concept, and the smoked salmon was gorgeous. It was the breakfast for a king, or perhaps maybe an abbott?

I almost didn't want to have to leave, I would have stayed there forever, if they had let that is! The staff were all so friendly & helpful, and made this one of the best nights away I've had. If you want to experience a truly special evening, then check out their website @abbeyinnbyland.co.uk. I promise you, this is a place worth visiting before you pop your clogs. Or perhaps to keep it more on theme, it's a place to visit before Henry the Eighth tries to suppress it!

After breakfast we packed up our things and loaded it all back in the car before the long drive back to Southampton. But I couldn't resist another quick shot of the front of the abbey. I'll be back again, I promise!

We broke the journey up with a stop in Peterborough for a wander about. We had thought about going into the cathedral, but it was closed due to a private event, so we just had be content with a wander around the outside. It's quite a interesting building, with these almost recess like structures in the frontage which give it a really interesting feel of depth and shadow.

A view of the entrance arches, with the fun little crenellations along the top.

A view of the back of the cathedral, with it's many levels and windows. I'd love to go inside, so we've made a plan to return again at some point in the future.

Just outside the cathedral is the main square with this fantastic town hall style building. I remembered where it was, just in case the grey skies decided to dump a load of rain on us! 

Anyway, we continued the journey home, stopping at the services again so I could get out and stretch about, before getting home quite late. But what a fantastic weekend away, I can't wait to do it again. When's the next bit of annual leave coming up?