Sofia Part 2

 Part 2 of the wonderful city of Sofia!

I find Bulgaria quite different to other countries I have visited from other countries of the former Eastern Block. It has this wonderful charm, and it seems to have this almost effortless blend of culture & history, with its ancient, medieval, modern and future eras of the city combining. Take the archaeological underpass in the metro system, where you actually can walk on a roman pavement! Or the little Saint Petka church nestled between modern & old buildings. Or even a bright and cheery vintage ad for Chupa-Chups! Often old and new compete for your attention, but for some reason in Sofia, things seem to harmonise. Maybe thats the beautiful Bulgarian weather, or the air pollution that afflicts the city on hot days. Or maybe its just because you are visiting somewhere special. Who knows?

There is one thing that a lot of other places could learn from Sofia & Bulgaria, and its a difficult scenario, is what to do with historical artefacts from a time that people would rather forget? At a time where many Eastern European countries are removing/changing former USSR monuments, to nations in the west tearing down statues of former slave traders, it seems we are trying to erase or change history, rather than trying to understand history. In the case of the statue of Edward Colston forcibly ripping the statue from its base and tossing it into a river is an act of destruction and reckless behaviour. But also, to keep the statue as it was is just as bad. Perhaps Bristol Council could have asked the people of Bristol what they really thought, and done something with the statue in a sensitive way. Perhaps it could have stayed, but with a plaque or board explaining that this man made money from the evils of the slave trade, and that his fortune had a very human cost. Or perhaps it could have been moved to a museum, where we could stand and apprise the statue and the man in a suitable environment & learn from it. That to me would be the best option, and its something that the city of Sofia has done. 

The socialist art museum is a little way out from the centre of Sofia, but is easily accessible from the nearest Metro station G.M Dimitov. Its a thought provoking and interesting museum. Tickets are 6 Lev (around £3) and theres the main outside exhibition with over 70 pieces of socialist era art & sculpture, as well as exhibitions inside too. Having them grouped together allows you to understand not just the scale, but how the art would interact with the environment around it. Highlights include a beautiful red star, which was previously on the Party House, two women workers, and a humorous "printscreen". Well worth a visit!

Getting around Sofia can be challenging. You've got a great Metro system that is gradually extending out, which will get you most places you need to go. There's also a comprehensive tram & bus network, but the tram network can be especially confusing. I queued up in what I thought was the transport ticket office for 20minutes before being told it was some sort of bank/lottery ticket place, given directions to the actual transport office, where I spent another 20 minutes in a queue. Nobody there spoke any real English, (this is fairly common in Sofia) but luckily with some broken German and notes on a bit of paper, I managed to get directions and tram/bus numbers to where I needed to go. (I had planned a route in the the hostel, but to my chagrin there was a lot of roadwork's/engineering works and tram diversions which absolutely threw me!) However, public transport in Sofia is cheap, functional and diverse. Just do a little bit of planning before you set out!

If there's one thing you do in Sofia, it has to be the Alexander Nevski Cathedral. You cannot miss it, its shining domes and thousands of windows dominate the cities skyline. And there's a nod to the Parisians too, just put one of your most recognisable & exquisite attractions in the centre of a frightening roundabout! But the roundabout here is sneaky, its covered in car parking spaces, so its not instantly clear where to cross, but one second it is empty and you're gazing up at the golden domes, the next, every driver in Sofia is trying to weave around you. Make sure you're on the pavement before you top and stare!

If people tell you its underrated, IGNORE THEM! There's also supposed to be no pictures allowed inside, although you can pay to take them, or you can also argue with the old ladies in there who then try to tell you what you can and can't take pictures of. Its dark but very beautiful inside, find yourself a quiet corner to stand in and just let your eyes gave around the inside as you feel yourself becoming lost in its dark, yet golden interior!

Tomorrow will feature part 3, including the stunning botanical gardens!