Fier & Apollonia

 Ok, so remember a few posts ago when I said that Albania hadn't quite got its tourist infrastructure in yet? Well the trip to Apollonia was a bit frustrating. So I got to the Bus station in Berat, to find that the Furgon I was expecting to catch had already gone because it was full. So I got into the next one, and then frustratingly, another one filled with a load of people before leaving. I'd already paid the driver, so I had to wait for our one to fill, before we could go. Something had happened on the road we were supposed to go on (no idea what) so we ended up being diverted a long way round before joining the route we were supposed to take, so we got to Fier ridiculously late. Now I'd tried to find what bus could get me to Apollonia, but struggled to find any information online about it, so I asked in the bus station, and they said there was a bus every two hours, but it had gone about 5 minutes previously. So I decided to walk for a bit, and see if I could pick up the bus en route. Anyway, it had started to rain by this point, an as usual, I had underestimated the walk from Fier to Apollonia, which ended up taking me about two and a bit hours, and the bus went past me and dropped off a load of people where the road to Apollonia turns off. Its a around a further kilometre up the road. The bus goes toward Pojan Village.

But I did get to see this rather forlorn bunker, as well as the remains of the roman road by the side of the modern road.

Now, the site was rammed full of teenagers, there was a couple of coaches there, and you couldn't move for teens and their teachers trying to teach them about the history of the site (presumably) Some of them were even playing football on the site! 

I decided that I'd do the quieter areas of the site first, so I had a little wander around the outskirts of the site, looking at some of the walls and the view, before having the picnic I had brought with me. (this really tasty Albanian ham I got from the local shop as well as some fruit, which I duly shared with one of the birds that decided to sit with me.

Then it had started to rain heavily, and everyone disappeared. Literally vanished into thin air like Lord Lucan, it was bizarre. I thought I'd look in the museum, then head back into the site once the rain had finished. The museum was in what looked like an old church building, and farm complex, and it was full of archaeological finds and delights

The wonderful mosaic under the floorboards!

Love these beautiful glass bottles! Even two thousand years on they look as good as new!

Just as I was leaving the museum, the security guard came over to me, and I instantly thought "Oh god, what have a I done now". He asked me how my visit had been, apologised for the chaos of the school trips, and told me the last bus back to Fier was due soon, and to head to the stop so I wouldn't miss it. I was very grateful to him, thanked him many times, and headed to the bus stop, which was around 15/20 mins from Apollonia. It was a shame I couldn't explore Apollonia more, but I also didnt fancy another two hour walk back to the bus station. So I got on the bus, and headed back to Fier.

Then, we had more problems. For some strange reason, the Furgon from Berat, that drops you off, does not start again from the same place in Fier. So with some broken English instructions from a very helpful man in a kebab kiosk, who wrote the directions on a napkin for me, I set off the find the Furgon. I brought a kebab from him, which was delicious, and told him to keep the change. I made to the spot where the furgon goes, only to find I had, yet again missed it. (Do you notice a theme forming here?) Anyway, I must have waited half an hour or so before I got onto the next one, and again after doing this massive diversion, was dropped off back at Berat.

Two things I will add about my trip to Apollonia. First of all Fier is the birthplace of legend Eleni Foureira. I did not see any statues or her, nor any streets or squares named after her.

Second of all, one of my friends did the same trip from Berat to Fier and Apollonia earlier this year, and said the public transport has gotten much better. Furgons are more frequent between the two cities, an the bus to Apollonia now runs more frequently (Varying between 1 hours and 90 mins between busses, depending on the time of day) They found this webpage (https://sandaltanman.com/a-detailed-guide-to-albania-buses) which they found made the trip and their experience in Albania much easier and less stressful, and therefore, more enjoyable!

I was glad to hear that it was getting easier getting around Albania, if you don't speak Albania, it is quite a challenge to get around, and find you way where you are going. I can only hope that it continues to improve, as I think Albania is an amazing place to visit, and more people would go if it was just a little bit easier. But then again, part of the reason why Albania is so special is because it doesn't have millions of tourists descending into it, so maybe its best to keep the joys of Albania a secret for now.